GANESHGUDI....WHAT A REVELATION!

I fell in love with North Karnataka when I visited Sirsi. I vowed to continue my affair with the region and visit it soon! It took me all of four years to visit again, this time to Ganeshgudi.  I was looking forward to this journey, specially after the lockdowns, and social isolation of  not meeting friends or relatives for a long time.  As my husband and I were going to drive down, it was quite safe.  We took pit stops at Koyna and Kolhapur on the way south, and on the way back; it was Ganpatipule and Shiravali.

Entrance to Old Magazine House, Ganeshgudi

The last leg of the journey to Ganeshgudi was through the beautiful Ramnagar-Dandeli forest.  The road was a dream, with dense trees on both sides, forming a wonderful canopy overhead! We were headed to the Old Magazine House (OMH-Jungle Resorts Ltd), which was ensconced in the middle of this jungle.  We reached there around lunch time, and after settling down, we were treated to a sumptuous meal on the first floor of the quaint wooden cafeteria, surrounded by trees and bird songs!  The company of like-minded bird watchers added to the charming experience.  Social distancing and face masks were the norm of the day, but they were no deterrents to the thrill and anticipation of what was awaiting us!

They have set up 8 to 10 bird baths at the OMH, the place where we stayed. I am not very keen on “hide-photography”. But, as I am still recovering from knee-replacement surgeries, I can’t walk very fast, leave alone run after the birds. So, hide-photography turned out to be a boon.

We were waiting in anticipation near the hides from 3.30 pm, and sure enough, the activity of the birds began around 4 o’clock.  There were bamboo bushes and trees of various sizes and varieties surrounding the open patch where the bird baths were set up. The Oriental White Eyes led the party, playing hide and seek in the bamboo bushes, before  swooping down. It was great fun to see these small, large-eyed yellow birds splashing about in the water, taking turns, diving into and jumping out of the water.

Oriental White Eye

Some of the birds like the Brown-cheeked Fulvettas and Dark-fronted Babblers came out stealthily from the underbrush and quietly came to the water.  These Brown-cheeked Fulvettas are brown and buff, plain-looking birds, with a grey crown. But after a dip in the water, they look like a teen-aged boy with “spiked” hairstyles!

Brown-cheeked Fulvetta

before and after the dip!

   Dark-fronted Babbler      

Indian Blackbird

Soon the air was getting filled with bird songs, twitters and chirps, as well as the sound of cameras happily clicking away!

There were so many species of birds to be seen, most of them were “Lifers” for me (I was seeing them for the first time)!  The activity kept increasing and it was getting difficult to keep track of the birds.  It was like a feast, the table laden with so many varieties of delectable dishes!  Then came the White-bellied Blue Flycatchers and Tickell’s Blue Flycatchers. 

White-bellied Blue Flycatcher

Tickell's Blue Flycatcher

After the excitement died down a little, the Black-naped Monarch hesitantly made an entrance.  This beautiful azure-blue bird with black-nape patch and black gorget across upper breast, was quite shy and timid. It was sitting deep inside the shadows of the foliage and making very quick, short sallies to the water and darting back again.

Black-naped Monarch.

Then there was the solitary Oriental Magpie Robin, and Brown Shrike keeping each other company.  The Indian Paradise Flycatcher (female) was making sedate appearances.

Oriental Magpie Robin                

Brown Shrike                                      

Indian Paradise Flycatcher

It was the first week of December, so the day was very short and dusk fell very early in the midst of all the tall trees.

The next day at breakfast, I was thrilled to spot a Blue-capped Rock Thrush, sitting on a branch at eye level.  It was literally posing for me, as though for a “photo-shoot”!  One does get lucky sometimes!  The afternoon was made special by the appearance of the Malabar Grey Hornbill. Initially, it was just a pair of them, but later on one more joined them.  But here three was definitely not a crowd!  These Hornbills are endemic to the western ghats, and  unlike most other hornbills, they don’t have a casque.  But it has its own monochrome grey beauty.

Blue-capped Rock Thrush

Malabar Grey Hornbill

Come early evening (or late afternoon), it was time to wait near the bird baths.  Today’s guests were Indian Yellow Tit (which very much resembled the Himalayan Black-lored Tit), Flame-throated Bulbul, Black-throated Munia, Indian Black Bird, and Orange-headed Thrush; each one more beautiful than the other!!  The Yellow-browed Bulbul and the Dark-fronted Babbler were not to be left behind! 

Indian Yellow Tit.                                                      

Flame-throated Bulbul.

Black-throated Munia.                                     

Yellow-browed Bulbul.

Puff-throated Babbler.                                          

Orange-headed Thrush

I was eagerly waiting to see the White-rumped Shama, as it was another lifer  for me.  And when it did make an appearance,  I wasn’t disappointed at all!  It was stunning, with a glossy-black body, chestnut belly, and white feathers on the rump and outer tail.  It was hiding in the bamboo bushes and took its own time to come out!

White-rumped Shama

The Emerald Dove was in its own league! It took its own time at the baths, preening and showing off its beautiful emerald wings one at a time!

Emerald Dove

We used to go for walks outside the campus before breakfast. We saw the Plum-headed Parakeets, and the cute little Vernal Hanging Parrots.  There was this Orange Minivet (female) which I almost mistook for a Golden Oriole!  

Plum-headed Parakeet

Vernal Hanging Parrot.

Orange Minivet (Female)

There were so many things to discover in the dense forest.   We saw the Malabar Gliding Frog on a hanging leaf in perfect camouflage - in fact we would have missed it, if it were not brought to our notice by Guru, one of the staff members, who accompanied us! The other non-avians who attracted my attention were the beautiful Malabar Giant Squirrels.  A Scorpion made a sudden appearance in the sunny compound near the Cafeteria, initially causing a mild commotion, and then a flutter of excitement!     

Malabar Gliding Frog                            

 Scorpion       

Malabar Giant Squirrel

Southern Birdwing...The State Butterfly of Karnataka.

We could hear the melodious tantalising song of the Malabar Trogon, very early in the mornings, but it was too dark to see it! It was number one on my wish-list, but unfortunately, I wasn’t lucky enough to see it in all the four days of our stay.  May be, it wanted us to visit again!

In the evenings, when dusk was falling in the campus, we used to make trips to the Kali River and Supa Dam….but that is a story for another day.

All in all, it was a very eventful and satisfying four days….we went home with beautiful memories and hearts full of gratitude for having had this wonderful holiday in Uttara Kannada.

Aditi Deshpande; 

January 26, 2021, The 72nd Republic Day of India.